The night before my departure, I had an awful migrane, so I went to bed really early at 8pm. Waking up at 6, I packed and then went to work. I wanted to have time to eat lunch and be at the train station early so I left work before noon. My train left Davos at 1pm to arrive in Zurich around 3:30. Then I took a train from Zurich to Neuchatel. That was the plan anyway. My first goof during the trip happened when I got off the train, convinced we were in Neuchatel… only to discover that I was a little premature. I was in Biel, which I would later learn is about 20 miles away from Neuchatel. I ran back to the platform, grateful that my train was still there, and boarded right before its departure. It wasn’t until I heard the announcement "next stop Neuchatel" that I was reassured I had hopped back on the right train.
On the TGV I met three American ladies from Flordia traveling around Europe for 5 week. They were nearing the end of their trip and showed me lots of beautiful pictures of Italy. We all stared out the window as the train approached Paris, in awe that we were finally arriving in the magical city.
As soon as I arrived in Paris, I realized my second mistake. I had brought my swiss francs in cash, hoping to exchange them into Euros (and British Pounds) when I arrived. I didn't think that, when I arrived at 10pm on a Thursday night, all of the cash exchanges would be closed. The ticket machine at the metro didn't take American credit cards, so I had to locate an ATM machine, which took about 30 minutes (3 blocks away from the train station). During this time I started to run though crisis scenarios of being homeless and moneyless in a foreign city...
The metro was easy to navigate, and I got to my stop without a problem. Then I started looking for my street… but there were no street signs to be found! I picked a direction and walked a block to find another intersection, perhaps one with street names. I was walking quickly, and as I passed two men on the sidewalk, one of them addressed me in Polish. Totally taken aback, I didn't even hear their names properly to remember them. They were shocked to hear I was alone in the city and insisted that they help me find my hostel. After stopping in two different cafes to ask for directions, we found the hostel-- in the exact opposite direction where I originally headed.
The receptionist at the hostel in Paris was very friendly and helpful. My room ended up being a 4 person dorm style. I was very impressed with how clean everything was, my only complaint would be that the bunk bed didn't seem very sturdy as I climbed on top (without a ladder to help me). The whole thing swung back and forth as I tried to propel myself onto the mattress. A Frenchman in the bunk next to mine tried to talk to me but the language barrier made things tricky. I soon insisted that I had to get some sleep-- tomorrow I would explore Paris!!!
After waking up at 7am, I went to the Gare du Nord train station to pick up my tickets for the Eurostar trip later that day. I also finally exchanged all my money into the currencies I'd be needing. Then I walked to Sacre Coeur, or Sacred Heart Cathedral. A group of African men were in front of the cathedral weaving bracelets for passersby and they pulled me in, literally. It would take me the next 24 hours to finally untangle the bracelet off my arm. Sacre Cour was nice inside (no pictures allowed!) but the best part was the view from outside the cathedral. It is so high up, you could see the whole city before you. Next I took the metro to Arc du Triumphe. There wasn't actually much to see there-- I got my picture like all the other tourists, and then (tried) to be on my way. It was difficult because the Arc is in the middle of a rondo into which like 8 streets feed. By now I'd learned that street names are found on the corners of buildings, so I crossed from one street to the next and approached the closest building to inspect its street. Finally I found the right one, and headed towards the Eiffel tower.
On my way, a man started talking to me in French. I explained that I didn't speak French, and we launched into a conversation. It turned out that this guy is a cardiologist working in the Paris hospital system, on his way to run an errand. I accepted his invitation to coffee (well tea for me, actually) at a café (how cliché!).
Next, I walking through some parks, and looking up to the trees and saw it-- the Eiffel tower. It was so unreal to actually be there! I spent some time in the park across the river, just reading and enjoying the sunny, warm day. I was disappointed when I finally approached the base of the tower and saw the huge lines of people waiting to go up. I was about to give up, but then saw a shorter looking line for manual ascent-- by stairs, that is. 30 minutes and 3 euros later, I was climbing the stairs of the Eiffel tower. I spent at least two hours on the Tower, walking, resting, looking around, and taking pictures like mad. After my descent, I found a spot on the lawn in front of the tower, pulled out my book, and sunbathed. A lazy Parisian afternoon J
I found lunch somewhat randomly, after wandering aimlessly (well, with a general direction of north). The salad was spicy and unusual but very good. Then it was time to catch my train to London!
The Eurostar train from Paris to London wasn't anything special. The tube (underground train or metro) in London was even worse. I stood in line for about 30 minutes to get a ticket (all the ticket machines were broken and there was only one ticket window open!) Then I was shocked to pay 4 pounds for a one way trip! I would not be traveling on the tube very much. The stations were very modern and minimalistic-- a lot of metal, concrete, and empty walls. Not at all like the colorful Parisian metro stops with maps and advertisements covering every cm of wall and ceiling space. Maybe the London tube should get more of its revenue from advertising and rely less on the traveler.
My hostel in London was easy to find, just across the street from the metro stop. The first floor was a pub, crowded and loud when I arrived Friday night. My room was on the 4th floor (which is actually like the 5th floor) with no elevator. I lugged myself up to the 8-bed all-girls room. Staying with me were three American ladies from CA. I got cleaned up and headed out in search of fun (and food). Well there isn't much to see in Hammersmith that late at night, so I finally retreated back to my room with a grocery store sandwich an hour later. Then, my roommates invited me to go out with them and I was happy to join them. We had a great time dancing and meeting real Londoners.
At 7:30am, I popped out of bed for my grand tour of London. I didn't have a map, just knew that I was walking east. When I saw something interesting, I just changed direction. I ended up in Kensington Palace-- the grounds were fantastic. As part of memorial for Princess Di, I got to make a gold-plated flower. After wandering some more, I gave in and bought a map. After that, it was another hour or so of walking to central London. I walked through Hyde Park, where they were setting up for the start of the Tour de France. Next, I saw what must have been the most expensive street in London-- I passed by all the big name designer shops. There were store attendants in suits at all the doors, waiting to open the door for a customer. After a little confusion, I found fellow MIT and AXO friends whom I was meeting and we were off to lunch! We ate Lebanese food, which isn't really unfitting. A big part of London culture does seem to be eating foreign food. I can only imagine why…
The Tour was just awesome! It took us a while to get really good spots to view the race, but eventually we did. Just see for yourself from the pictures. Then we spent some time at Starbucks and checked out the British National Museum. I was very impressed-- I have never been that interested at a museum before. All of the description panels next to the displays were very well done, I'm looking forward to going back someday. The evening ended with a walk through London's artsy/theatre district and dinner of fish and chips (what else?!).
The next day-- back in Paris! I first headed to creperie which had been recommended to me for lunch. My Martinique crepe with bananas, coconut ice cream, chocolate, and rum was set on fire at the table before it was served to me. It was amazing. From there, I walked for about two hours to Notre Dame, passing through the Jardin du Luxembourg. It was easy to spend a few hours at the Cathedral, where I caught Mass. What are the odds that one of the three priests co-celebrating the Mass was Polish?! So I actually heard a few familiar words. The evening in Paris wrapped up with dinner at a French restaurant, where I had a salad with spicy goat cheese (AMAZING!) and traditional beef stew. I finally went back to the train station to get myself home.
My last mistake for the weekend was not checking on the path of my train back home. It turned out that I'd be traveling through Germany where my rail pass isn't valid. I ended up having to pay for two extra tickets. Fortunately, after writing an official letter explaining the situation and making a trip to the train station with my proof later that week, I was refunded the cost of both tickets.
All in all, a great trip, many lessons learned. Can't wait to see London and Paris again!
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